Archive for the ylang-ylang Category

Coty Styx…First Presented in 1911.

Posted in amber, bergamot, carnation, Coty Styx, Francois Coty, galbanum, incense, musk, oakmoss, orris root, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, violet, woodsy notes, ylang-ylang with tags , , , on February 7, 2015 by sorceressofthedark
Coty Styx.

Coty Styx.

Coty Styx from the 1940’s seemed like an interesting one to try. Imagine something from that far back? Perfumes from another era are quite different from today, that’s for sure. There is a definite wait and see, a travel through the perfume, a Journey if you will throughout the duration of it.

When I first applied it, morbid thoughts of a funeral home came to mind. The florals were that overwhelming to me. But then, a tobacco pipe, rich, full tobacco leaves and old leather that was well-cared for filled my senses. I felt as if I was sitting in a gentlemen’s club from days gone by. This was earthy, musky, intense and quite heavy. I could envision the haughty country club women that wore this back then-they were the ladies that wore furs, Fascinators and red lipstick. And that’s just the initial burst.

Once that passed,it became a warm, ambery sandalwood doused with vanilla a beautiful incense burning in the background. The vanilla was a sweet buttercream. It turned out absolutely delicious and cozy.

I just love how the old-timers take you on a trip. Francois Coty developed this perfume in 1911. It is no longer being produced. There is nothing similar to today’s perfumes in Coty’s Styx that you will find. It is a completely different beast. Should you find it, be prepared to experience what perfume originally was designed to be.

You can search auction sites, antique stores, collectible stores or thrift stores to try and locate Coty Styx.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Carnation, Galbanum.
Middle Notes: Violet, Orris, Incense.
Base Notes: Amber, Vanilla, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk, Woods, Oakmoss.

All works past, present and future are protected under a CCC. Creative Common License, Kaarie Blake Musings by Kaarie Blake is licensed under a Creative Common Attribution-Noncommercial-Noderivs-3.0-Unported License.

Peace.

Sorceress.

 

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Elsa Schiaparelli Shocking. Animalistic Perfume From Days Gone By.

Posted in aldehydes, amber, bergamot, civetta, clove, jasmine, Jean Carles, musk, narcissus, patchouli, rose, sandalwood, Shocking, tarragon, white honey, ylang-ylang with tags , , , , , , on January 30, 2015 by sorceressofthedark

 

Shocking Schiaparelli.

Shocking Schiaparelli.

I recently came across a vintage sample of Shocking Schiaparelli by Elsa Schiaparelli, an oriental floral fragrance developed in 1937. I have no idea what year my sample vial is from, but it is older. Here are my thoughts on Shocking.

Initially, I believed this to be a beautiful perfume. After wearing it for hours, I still believe it would be considered beautiful by some, but others would have a problem with a fragrance such as this. Let me explain. It’s thick, rich and grand without a doubt. Civet comes to the forefront with a heavy dose of musk.

But civet isn’t for everyone. Civet is the by-product of the anal glands of exotic civet cats. In vintage perfumes, it was actually taken from the glands of the caged animal. Today, it is reproduced synthetically for ethical reasons. To some, it is considered a repulsive scent. To others, it adds beauty to a perfume.

Other well known perfumes that contain civet are Chanel No. 5, Shalimar, Coco Chanel, Jean Patou’s Joy, Kouros, Obsession, Paloma Picasso, Ysatis, Magie Noire, My Sin, Tabu, Bandit, Knowing, Elizabeth Taylor’s Passion, Cabotine Gres, Gloria Vanderbilt, Avon’s Occur and Topaze, Paul Sebastian Design, Krazy Krizia and White Shoulders.

Skanky? Yes. Shocking? Nah. Just in the sense of smelling of well, not necessarily sexy, but sexed. And there is a difference in those words. Some use the word “naughty” in their description, but that just sounds so tame to me. Shocking is an animalistic perfume that serves its purpose for certain occasions and those personalities that can pull it off.

It’s strong, a little goes a long way. I can only imagine how too much would clear a room. This is a perfume that needs to only be dabbed. It’s not an office perfume.

Shocking continues on a linear road for me, never really riding any waves or changing mid-course. I can see its’ appeal for vintage lovers and it’s a definite try for history perfume buffs. I’m happy for the opportunity to have sampled Jean Carles perfume.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Tarragon, Aldehydes.

Middle Notes: Narcissus, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, White Honey, Rose.

Base Notes: Musk, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Amber, Clove, Civetta.

Peace.

Sorceress.

All works past, present and future are protected under a CCC. Creative Common License, Kaarie Blake Musings by Kaarie Blake is licensed under a Creative Common Attribution-Noncommercial-Noderivs-3.0-Unported License.

Tuvache Jungle Gardenia.

Posted in benzoin, Bitter orange, clary sage, cyclamen, gardenia, heliotrope, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood, tarragon, tuberose, Tuvache Jungle Gardenia, violet leaf, ylang-ylang with tags , , , , , , on December 8, 2014 by sorceressofthedark
Tuvache Jungle Gardenia.

Tuvache Jungle Gardenia.

I recently acquired a vintage three-piece set of Jungle Gardenia by Tuvache, which included the cologne, perfumed powder and cologne spray concentrate. The original store sticker on this set, still on, priced it at $16.50, pretty hefty for the time period of this box, circa 1960’s. An inflation calculator puts that price at roughly $123.24 today, so it wasn’t that cheap.

Tuvache began producing Jungle Gardenia in 1932. They were a New York Company that used a french name to compete in the industry with many pre-World War II French fragrances controlling the current perfume industry. If you recognize the name, it’s because Madame Tuvache is a character in Gustave Glabert’s French novel, Madame Bovary.

Those rumored to wear Jungle Gardenia were Hollywood notobles Annette Funicello, Joan Crawford, Natalie Wood, Elizabeth Taylor and Fay Wray who wore it while filming King Kong. Michael Jackson also was a fan of this perfume. Perhaps because of his friendship with Elizabeth Taylor, speculation guesses.

The original Tuvache company was sold in the late 1960’s to Germaine Monteil, then in the 1970’s to Yardley of London, in 1989 to the Jovan division of Coty. A new reformulated scent was created that was not as popular as the original perfume.

Jungle Gardenia begins with gardenia of course, straight up. But, there is a burnt flavoring covering the top for some brief moments, perhaps it’s the clary sage in passing while the tart bitterness of the orange mellows the gardenia.  The tuberose at times is overpowering. It’s strong, thick and pure. It wafts in, around and through the perfume.

Eventually, Jungle Gardenia turned into a spicier sandlewood many, many hours later. Not just a generic sandlewood, mind you, but one that I’ve not encountered in a long, long time. Woods wrapped in types of unique spices and this stage was still just as strong as the others. To me, this seems a cold weather perfume to wear sparingly, but I haven’t tried it in the warmer months. I’d be curious to see how it develops then.

I loved how Jungle Gardenia took me through a Journey of notes and hours of pleasure of a perfume. That’s what it’s all about. Or how perfume used to be developed. And how it used to develop on those that spritzed them on themselves. They could enjoy the fragrance for hours.

This oriental floral perfume is clean, bright and fresh. It’s mature, sultry and strong. It’s a fragrance from the past that’s heady and strong-willed. a perfume to wear in the evening, for a mature personality that knows the old-time perfumes and appreciates them. What a delightful find this perfume has been!

Top Notes: Bitter Orange, Clary Sage, Cyclamen, Heliotrope.

Middle Notes: Gardenia, Tuberose, Tarragon, Ylang-Ylang, Violet Leaf, Jasmine, Lily-Of-The-Valley.

Base Notes: Oakmoss, Benzoin, Sandalwood, Musk.

Peace.

Sorceress

All works past, present and future are protected under a CCC. Creative Common License, Kaarie Blake Musings by Kaarie Blake is licensed under a Creative Common Attribution-Noncommercial-Noderivs-3.0-Unported License.

 

Ciara. Incense For The Heavens.

Posted in bergamot, Brazilian Rosewood, cedar, Ciara, incense, jasmine, leather, lemon, neroli, opoponax, oriental perfumes, orris root, palmorosa, raspberry, Uncategorized, vanilla, ylang-ylang with tags , , , , , on August 5, 2014 by sorceressofthedark
Ciara, Vintage and New.

Ciara, Vintage and New.

Spray cautiously. This is potent stuff! There is such a mixture in here I feel as if I’m rolling in fields in a surrealistic daydream. In comparing my Charles Revson Ciara (vintage) to my  Revlon Ciara (newer) , there are very distinct differences.

The opening in Revlon’s Ciara is tack sharp and more  assaultive. It hits your nostrils with a thinly-veiled shrill opoponax and tonka bean. It’s a bit of a wait for the drydown for the beauty of this perfume. The Charles Revson version opens immediately with a smooth rich intoxicating blend of spices, tonka bean, leather and opoponax with a hint of vanilla. It’s full-bodied and straight out of the past and you can inhale it, feel it and wrap it around yourself. It’s a juicier composition where the Revlon one seems to be cracking in its components.

This is an ideal comparison of where new, unfortunately, just doesn’t cut it. The woodiness seems stale and musty in Revlon’s version, yet Revson’s is an old cabin in the woods that has been taken care of with love. It’s the same with the leather in the two versions. Revson’s leather is a beautiful settee, that although still in pristine condition, has been well-used and loved for years. The leather is soft, comfortable and broken in. The leather in Revlon’s Ciara is non-existent or at best, perhaps pleather.

I love the incense quality which both have. Spray too much and you’re sitting in a church pew. Ciara is a sweet perfume that can overpower if applied heavily and becomes far too cloying. It’s a beautiful fragrance that only needs to be dabbed lightly to be appreciated for its’ warm beauty. This is wonderful in cold weather, the lower temperatures just seem to bring the smokiness of Ciara out. There’s a slight hint of fruit, barely there, but it’s so overshadowed by the incense and other notes you’ll hardly sense its’ presence.

Love that the raspberry adds a wonderful dollop of juiciness to this quaint perfume. Charles Revson made heaven in a bottle when they created this little beauty, that’s for sure. It’s intoxicating, it’s mesmerizing, it’s a heady brew. Such a shame that it’s not what’s in those Revlon bottles stamped with the same name. If you have the opportunity to sample the original, please do. You’ll understand why so many love vintage Ciara. It’s almost magical in nature.

How to tell the difference between vintage and new? And what is the difference between the 80-100-200%? The 80 would be considered the cologne strength, the 100 is the eau de toilette and the 200 is the eau de parfum.  Revlon is the current reformulated version while Charles Revson is one of the vintage formulas. Ciara was also marketed under the manufacturer “Ultima”. If you do buy new, go for the strongest concentration you can find.

Considered a drug-store find, available online, discount stores and in drugstore chains.

Top Notes: Neroli, Bergamot, Lemon, Raspberry.

Middle Notes: Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Brazilian Rosewood, Palmarosa, Orris Root.

Base Notes: Leather, Opoponax, Vanilla, Incense, Cedar.

Peace.

Sorceress.

All works past, present and future are protected under a CCC. Creative Common License, Kaarie Blake Musings by Kaarie Blake is licensed under a Creative Common Attribution-Noncommercial-Noderivs-3.0-Unported License.

 

White Diamonds Perfume…Stand Apart From The Crowd.

Posted in aldehydes, amber, bergamot, carnation, cinnamon, Egyptian Tuberose, Elizabeth Taylor, floral aldehyde, Italian Orris Root, jasmine, lily, musk, narcissus, neroli, oakmoss, orange, patchouli, sandalwood, Turkish Rose, White Diamonds, ylang-ylang with tags , , , , , , on May 27, 2014 by sorceressofthedark
Elizabeth Taylor's White Diamonds.

Elizabeth Taylor’s White Diamonds.

A multitude of flowers, tempered by creamy Egyptian Tuberose immediately brings to mind a bath of scented oils. White Diamonds reminds me of the strong power fragrances of the ’80’s-ladies who wore suits with shoulder pads, short skirts, high heels and big hair and weren’t afraid to say no, because they knew who they were, what they wanted and where they were going. Oh, how I remember those days!


I recently met a woman in the fragrance department of a store who told she only wore this perfume and was constantly on the look-out for others to no avail. We had a lively discussion over the old-time perfumes and I suggested some new ones for her to try. We parted happily after our discussion, two mature women, of  eras passed, where perfumes were once delicate and feminine, then turned to a heavier insidious oilier vibe-the musks, the patchoulis, the vetivers, then on to the powerhouses of the ’80s’.

We’ve enjoyed our true gourmands, our real vanillas, our basics. But now we see the insipid fruity blends. The mixes that are the flash-in-the-pans, the slap their names on and call a designer perfume. And we wonder what will become of this younger generation when they mature? What will be their baseline to cull information from?


Not so with Elizabeth Taylor’s White Diamonds. The aldehydes, of course, immediately hit you, but so does the bergamot, taming the bright florals of lily, carnation, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. But you expect this. The citrus of neroli, violety resemblance of orris root, light spices of cinnamon, hints of Turkish Rose, the hypnotic headiness of narcissus are all blended so well it’s no wonder this fragrance is becoming a classic. Amber powders the mix well, while the oakmoss and patchouli give it its mysterious undercurrent. A light musk and a bare inkling of sandalwood all combine to make White Diamonds a perfume definitive unlike any you’ll smell and one you’ll always remember. This is a love/hate relationship perfume. It is for the experienced wearer, for the lover of perfumes that understands and appreciates the correlation of notes as they are applied.

 
Slapping her sobriquet on a bottle wouldn’t have made Liz happy. She needed to make the perfumes work. She was successful in her goals. As with all of her fragrances, sillage is strong, as is the longevity. There is so much going on from start to finish, it is a joy to experience. This is a daytime or nighttime fragrance to wear, one to make you feel and experience strength.


I can understand falling in love with this perfume, and why someone would make it their signature perfume. It is complex. It’s warm and surrounding. There are quite a few in the Elizabeth Taylor line to sample, and if you have the opportunity, give as many as you can a test. They are fascinating perfumes.

So who can really wear this perfume? Are you too young to wear it? Is it only for the more mature wearer? It’s for a person who truly appreciates fragrances. It’s a perfume for someone who is ageless and classic, a daring soul who really doesn’t give a damn about what advertisements are telling society to wear today. It’s for the person that wants a lingering scent with gusto that wants to be remembered and wants to stand apart from the crowd. It’s price point is user friendly today as is most of her line and that’s what Elizabeth Taylor wanted. She wanted her perfumes to be used by all, not a select few.

White Diamonds, a floral aldehyde,  is available as an Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum with accompanying lotions and shower gels. They are available in major department stores, Sephora, discount department stores and online.’

Top Notes: Aldehydes, Orange, Lily, Neroli, Bergamot.

Middle Notes: Italian Orris Root, Carnation, Cinnamon, Egyptian Tuberose, Jasmine, Turkish Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Narcissus.

Base Notes: Amber, Patchouli, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood.

Peace.

Sorceress.

All works past, present and future are protected under a CCC. Creative Common License, Kaarie Blake Musings by Kaarie Blake is licensed under a Creative Common Attribution-Noncommercial-Noderivs-3.0-Unported License.

 

Hanae Mori…Strawberry Milkshake and Salted Almonds In The Misty Woods

Posted in Almond tree, Bernard Ellena, black currant, blackberry, blueberry, Brazilian Rosewood, Hanae Mori, jasmine, oriental, peony, rose, sandalwood, virginia cedar, wild strawberry, ylang-ylang with tags , , , , , , on March 25, 2014 by sorceressofthedark

 

 

Hanae Mori.

Hanae Mori.

Sitting in misty, foggy woods, drinking a strawberry milkshake and eating salted almonds. That pretty much sums up Hanae Mori for me. Oh, don’t forget the black eyeliner. That’s a definite wear. And listening to drum circle music. This is one perfume that takes you places.

It’s a perfume I’ve learned not to overspray. It’s there when I think it’s not. It’s vanilla wrapped with a nutty feel but not a traditional vanilla. This vanilla is smooth, creamy, mellow, powdery, fruity and musky. It’s moonlit nights, eyeliner, jazz music and funky shoes. It’s mood perfume.

There is a sophistication and maturity to Hanae Mori that can be pulled off appropriately by the right woman if she’s flaunting herself naturally. It’s a sensual perfume that begs to be worn by a Seductress. The incense of this fragrance wafts around her innocently yet captures others. There’s a smokiness to it that’s not heavy at all but there, just light enough to mesmerize.

Hanae Mori is a thick perfume if applied too heavily. It will come back with the heat of your skin and tickle your nose when you least expect it. Although its thickness can be somewhat off-putting to some, that quality gives it a unique, almost viscous feel. That’s its muskiness drawing you in. It’s a heavy and thick musk with a sweetness that wraps around the vanilla with a gauzy scarf. This is a season-less perfume with mild floral undertones that can be worn anywhere, anytime, as long as you don’t go heavy on the spritzing finger.

There are four fruits in the top notes to tantalize you. Blueberry, blackberry, strawberry and black currant work together with the middle and base notes to create the vanilla which is actually not listed. Wearing Hanae Mori you definitely feel this is a vanilla-based perfume.

Hanae Mori is considered a linear perfume, meaning that altho there are three layers of notes, the perfume stays the same throughout its run. It just stays beautiful throughout its many hours of runtime.

The day I picked this up, I was on my way to visit my grandson. Naturally, I spritzed some on as soon as I bought it. I really didn’t notice it while I was with him, thinking I had sprayed it very lightly earlier. When I returned home, I received a text from my daughter asking me what perfume her son was now wearing. I didn’t realize so little would transfer to him. That’s how strong Hanae Mori really is.

Hanae Mori, an oriental, was launched in 1995. The nose behind it is Bernard Ellena who is responsible also for Beloved, Cors de Benetton, Tribu, Eau de Paradis, L’Eau by Vanessa Bruno, About Men by Bruno Banani,Eau de Cobson Orange Bergamot, Love Etc., The Game, Connect For Her, Black Shine, That’s Amore! Gai Mattiolo Exotic Paradise LEI Hawaiian Vanilla, Seductive Sun Kissed, Jacomo de Jacomo Rouge, Jaguar Women, Style, Style Pastels Blush Pink, Style Pastels Soft Yellow, Style Pastels Tender Green, Style Soft, Style Summer, Stylessennce, Marc O’ Polo Midsummer, Legend Pour Femme, Naf Naf, Deep Impact, Native Force, Oriens, White Jeans, Oh My Dog!, Beloved Man, Oh My Cat!, Ange ou Demon Le Secret by Givenchy, Lapidus Woman and Popy Moreni de Fete.

Hanae Mori doesn’t announce herself but you’ll remember she was there. Kind of like a butterfly. She leaves a lasting impression.

The notes for Hanae Mori pink butterfly are:

Top Notes: Black Currant, Wild Strawberry, Blackberry, Blueberry.

Middle Notes: Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Rose, Peony.

Base Notes: Sandalwood, Virginia Cedar, Brazilian Rosewood, Almond Tree.

Hanae Mori is available in department stores and online.

This video beautifully explains the history of Hanae Mori.

Peace.

Sorceress.

All works past, present and future are protected under a CCC. Creative Common License, Kaarie Blake Musings by Kaarie Blake is licensed under a Creative Common Attribution-Noncommercial-Noderivs-3.0-Unported License.

 

Cher’s Uninhibited…Sweet, Spicy and Oriental…Why Do People Buy and Wear Those Things?

Posted in aldehydes, bergamot, floral aldehyde, geranium, heliotrope, jasmine, orange, rose, sandalwood, vanille, vetiver, virginia cedar, ylang-ylang with tags , , , , , , , , on March 16, 2014 by sorceressofthedark
Cher Uninhibited.

Cher Uninhibited.

Maple and caramel lead the way with tobacco influences in Cher’s Uninhibited perfume. A warm maple syrup, akin to an old-fashioned syrupy flavor over waffles in a bed and breakfast surrounds you immediately. My first impression was that so much more was forthcoming. This is a heavy perfume. I could almost hear Cher telling the perfumer to just “do it” as they made this perfume stronger and stronger without thinking of the consequences. It’s as if she wanted a perfume over the top and that’s what she got. A perfume as unforgettable as the woman.

A mix of woods appear next, warm resinous, gooey and thick, almost sappy-like. I inhaled deeply. This stuff is beautiful. Rich spices swirled in amidst the dangling oakmoss. This is a thick, full-bodied perfume, so enticing and seductive I’m not surprised production has stopped. The cost was probably prohibitive amidst all cutbacks, regulations and politics. And perhaps Cher wouldn’t cave in to an inferior product. Because this fragrance is amazing. Twenty-six years later and it’s an ass-kicker that opens your eyes.

Uninhibited opens with a bit of citrus and aldehydes to let you know this is a strong perfume from yesteryear and you won’t be disappointed. But the aldehydes disappear within seconds. Sweet and seductive with ylang-ylang, a laid-back almond vanilla courtesy of heliotrope, a dry, dry bitter, musty vetyver hinted with dark chocolate and a rich tobacco, and just when you think you’re in a throwback to the ’80’s oriental perfume heaven,  along comes a boozy vanilla scent uncommon to today’s perfumes.

Uninhibited is strong, ample and robust. The perfumes notes blend beautifully together to create a potent concoction that is substantial. The bottle itself is an art deco work of delight with its cap reminiscent of Chers’ outlandish headpieces designed by Bob Mackie.

If you like heavy woody orientals, look for Uninhibited on the secondary market. It is no longer in production, unfortunately.

It’s classified as a floral aldehyde and I cannot see why this perfume has that classification. It just doesn’t fit. Even Cher herself describes it as a “spicy oriental that is sweet”.  A stunner just like the woman that put her name on it.

This perfume was created in 1987.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Orange, Aldehydes.

Middle Notes: Jasmine, Geranium, Ylang-Ylang, Tobacco, Heliotrope, Rose.

Base Notes: Vetyver, Sandalwood, Virginia Cedar, Vanille.

Peace.

Sorceress.

All works past, present and future are protected under a CCC. Creative Common License, Kaarie Blake Musings by Kaarie Blake is licensed under a Creative Common Attribution-Noncommercial-Noderivs-3.0-Unported License.

 

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